Tips on Growing and Caring for Daylilies

  • Yes. Daylilies do well in containers.

  • Daylilies can be maintained in the same location for several years, and will look more attractive after being established for a period of years. Dividing is recommended if an established clump experiences diminished bloom. 

    Digging and dividing can be undertaken anytime the plant is active in growth, including during its bloom. Begin by liberally watering the clump. Let dry for a day or two until the soil is moist, but not wet. Dig the entire clump and knock any dirt off the roots. Cut back foliage to a length of 8 or 9 inches. Gently, with either your hands or the aid of a pair of screwdrivers, pry the clump apart and continue to divide the clump into single and double fans. Cut off any damaged roots and replant.

  • During the growing months keep your garden clean and tidy by removing any dead foliage and weeds. At the end of the season, remove all dead and dying foliage and pull old bloom stalks. Leave the healthy foliage for winter protection. Mulch, although not essential in every area, can be applied as a means of improving the soil, helping to retain moisture, and assisting in weed control. In climates with large temperature swings, mulch can be applied to protect against potential freeze damage to new foliage.

  • For the home gardener, a regime of mulching and hoeing works best. Those looking for a chemical solution can use any over-the-counter daylily-safe preemergent herbicide.

  • Daylilies should be planted at a depth of between ½ inch to 1 inch below soil level. Prepare for planting by loosening soil to a depth of 8 to 12 inches. Construct a mound with the top ½ to 1 inch below soil level. Place daylily on mound and spread out roots. Fill in hole and gently firm soil.

  • Water every three days during the dry season and every day for those in containers. Daylilies benefit most from a deep watering, reaching 8 to 10 inches into the soil, rather than a surface watering. Be alert, though, that overhead watering during the heat of the day can cause open blooms to spot and/or wilt. Also, be careful to maintain good drainage and not over-water.

  • Daylilies are heavy feeders. Fertilizing with a balanced granular or liquid fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, is recommended. If using a granular fertilizer be careful not to apply the fertilizer directly on top of your daylilies, as it can burn the foliage. Apply fertilizer each spring after the risk of frost has passed. Additional applications can be made as needed just prior to bloom and then again late in summer or fall. Fertilizer is also recommended at time of planting new divisions.

  • Just about any summer blooming sun perennial will grow well with daylilies. Reblooming iris make a particularly well-suited companion.

  • A reblooming daylily is a daylily with multiple bloom cycles. After the initial bloom, reblooming daylilies will produce additional bloom cycles lasting into the late summer. Those in warmer climates will have better luck in experiencing additional bloom cycles on reblooming cultivars.

  • Daylilies thrive in rich, moist, and well-drained garden soils. Planting on a slope or a raised bed helps ensure good drainage. Sandy or clay soils should be improved by adding organic matter. Add compost, humus, or sand to clay soils. Add compost or humus to sandy soils.

  • Proliferations are leafy shoots that can develop on the scape (bloom stalk) of a daylily. Proliferations may be removed and rooted.

  • Daylily rust is evidenced with tiny mustard yellow spots forming primarily on the underside of the foliage. It is spread by spores in the air and some varieties are significantly more susceptible than others. Initially daylily rust was quite prevalent in Florida, but rare elsewhere. Due to its transmission vector and the high rate of susceptibility of daylilies to rust, it is now endemic throughout the United States in areas without a hard winter freeze or an area with no perceptible humidity. This means that desert environments like Arizona and areas as cold as Kansas and Missouri should not have rust winter over. In areas with mild winters it may be a moderate or severe problem and in tropical areas with lots of rainfall, it may be severe. 

    We offer the following suggestions to help our customers prevent an infection of rust. First, be able to recognize it. Be sure you know what rust looks like and inspect your plants regularly for traces of it. If you find rust, cut the foliage back to about 3 inches and spray with Daconil Ultrex. This will kill any active spores. This may solve the problem, but you need to revisit this area each week and make sure it's under control. If you have an organic garden and are opposed to spraying, we would recommend you remove any cultivars with significant rust and unless you live in a very tropical environment, you may find the rust while active in your garden, is not objectionable. Be considerate of others though and don't share or sell any plants without informing them that you do have active rust in your garden. We recommend that you buy from nurseries that have active spray programs and sources to minimize your chances of getting rust. 

    To learn more about rust, we recommend you visit this website to learn more about daylily rust. http://www.ncf.ca/~ah748/rust.html.

    Schreiner’s Gardens guarantees the delivery of rust-free daylilies.

  • Common pests of daylilies include aphids, spider mites, thrips, and slugs and snails. Keeping a neat and clean garden is the best defense against all pests. Otherwise, bait and various other systemic pesticides may be utilized.

  • Diploids are daylilies with 22 chromosomes, while tetraploids are daylilies with 44 chromosomes.

  • Dormant, evergreen, and semi-evergreen refers to a daylily’s foliage. 

    • Dormant daylilies are deciduous. 
    • Evergreen daylilies, as the name implies, will retain their foliage through the winter. 
    • Semi-evergreen daylilies are in-between the two, with the overwintering of foliage dependent on climate. 

    As a general rule, those in warmer climates should stick with evergreen and semi-evergreen daylilies, while those in colder climates should have luck with both dormant and evergreen cultivars.

  • Daylilies will generally bloom in the summer. Warmer climates may see earlier bloom.

  • In general, daylilies can be planted from early to late Spring through early to late Fall. For best results, plant no later than 4-6 weeks before your typical first hard frost. 

    We will ship your daylily order at the right time for planting. Plant your daylilies as soon as you receive them. If you cannot plant them right away, store in a cool area for up to two weeks.

  • Daylilies need at least five hours of direct sunlight, although full sun is typically best. Filtered light during the hottest part of the day can also be beneficial, especially for many darker colored varieties. To avoid root competition for water and nutrients, keep from planting near shrubs or trees if possible. If unavoidable, increase water and fertilization.

  • Many factors may lead to an individual daylily plant not blooming. Some of the most common causes include: 

    • Lack of sufficient sunlight. At least five hours per day is recommended. 
    • Overcrowding. A previously floriferous clump no longer blooming is a sure sign that the clump is in need of division. 
    • Immature plant. Smaller daylily divisions may take a year to fully establish before blooming
  • Yes. If deer are a problem in your garden, we recommend you consider iris instead.

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